In the summer of 2023, I did a cross-European backpacking trip, which included taking the sleeper train from Istanbul to Sofia. The ticket cost around 30 euros, and the journey was a good 10 hours. You buy the tickets in the old Orient Express era Sirkeci station in Istanbul which is really beautiful and has a lovely late Victorian tearoom.
I had to take the Istanbul metro way out to the west to catch it from the considerably less beautiful Halkali station. The train is notoriously delayed. I was lucky as my compartment was full of three very friendly Australian backpackers. We had great chats about cricket, surfing, and their work in the mining industry. They had been travelling the world and had gone across Turkey by rail. The TVS2000 couchette car was very comfortable albeit had pretty lackluster air-conditioning.
Late at night, when we reached the border between Turkey and Bulgaria, we were bundled off the train to passport control. The Bulgarians must know how difficult it is to get good alcohol in Turkey, as we went straight through to a liquor store, where we found very cheap Bulgarian vodka and a kebab van. The Australians were absolutely delighted, and we spent the rest of the trip getting very, very drunk, eventually passing out and waking up in Sofia, which was honestly amazing, complete with a banging hangover. I’ve also attached a bonus picture of an old communist-era tram you can see hurtling around Sofia, which has a really extensive and wonderful tram network.
I’ve always wanted to take a sleeper train but the ones here are hilariously expensive to the point where you could fly first class for cheaper most of the time.
I’ve never been able to afford one in my own country. It’s likely cheaper to book return flights to the Balkans and book a sleeper trip there than it is to take either the Caledonian or Night Riviera Sleeper service here.
